In a world where technological leaps dominate our understanding of progress, the enduring power of scent to transport us through time remains an unparalleled phenomenon. A fleeting aroma can evoke vivid childhood memories, conjure distant travels, or even offer a glimpse into eras long past, shaped by the countless hands that have interacted with the objects that carry them. Änti Parfum, a pioneering fragrance house founded by Brieuc Larsonneur and Larissa Sugaipova, is harnessing this profound connection through its innovative approach to "olfactory archaeology." This ambitious endeavor involves meticulously excavating historical moments, cultural practices, material artifacts, and even the essence of individuals to craft avant-garde scent narratives with a distinctly modern resonance. "Very early on, we became obsessed with the idea that perfume is humanity’s first time machine," Brieuc Larsonneur shared in an interview, underscoring the foundational philosophy of their brand. Larsonneur, whose previous professional life as a retail architect and set designer saw him collaborate with esteemed houses like Atlein, Altuzarra, and Balenciaga under the creative direction of Demna Gvasalia, brings a unique spatial and structural understanding to the art of perfumery. His tenure at Kenzo and subsequent role at Vilhelm Parfumerie led him to meet Larissa Sugaipova, whose expertise in marketing and e-commerce provided the perfect complementary skill set. Their shared vision for something more substantial than conventional fragrance creation blossomed into Änti Parfum. A Timeline of Scents: From Ancient Egypt to the Modern Nose Launched in October of the previous year, Änti Parfum introduced its inaugural collection of seven fragrances, meticulously charting a chronological journey through history, commencing with the earliest documented scent practices. The brand’s namesake fragrance, "Bast," is an homage to the first recorded perfume in ancient Egypt, dating back to approximately 2000 BC. This opulent creation is imbued with incense, sparkling amber, frankincense, and myrrh, aiming to capture the spiritual and ceremonial significance of early perfumery. Moving forward in time, "Rosa Antiqua" draws inspiration from a preserved perfume extraction discovered in Pompeii, dating to 79 AD. This fragrance represents a meticulously researched reconstruction of scents prevalent in Roman society just prior to the devastating eruption of Mount Vesuvius. Further east, "Nashi Toro" (86 AD) delves into Japan’s Yayoi period. Despite its historical roots, this scent offers a remarkably contemporary feel, characterized by its soft, creamy texture and the bright, chic freshness of pear, making it resonate with modern fragrance preferences. Perhaps one of the most talked-about creations is "Antinous," named after the young lover of Roman Emperor Hadrian, who met a tragic end by drowning in the Nile River in 130 AD. Brieuc Larsonneur humorously, yet revealingly, admits that this fragrance also draws inspiration from a rather unexpected source: the scent of Timothée Chalamet’s armpit, particularly as evoked in the film Call Me By Your Name. This bold conceptualization results in a divisive yet compelling blend of cumin and aromatic sage. While polarizing, its dry-down is described as soft and peppery, reminiscent of the lingering warmth of a sun-kissed summer day, capturing the essence of skin warmed by the elements. Expanding the Olfactory Palate: Kleopatra and the Gourmand Frontier In early April, Änti Parfum expanded its historical olfactory tapestry with the release of "Kleopatra." This fragrance marks a significant departure for the brand, venturing into the realm of gourmand scents for the first time. Inspired by the legendary milk baths of the Egyptian queen, Kleopatra is an intoxicating fusion of vanilla bourbon, sandalwood, musk, and almond milk. This addition is a strategic move, acknowledging the diverse preferences of fragrance consumers and offering a more accessible entry point into the collection for those who gravitate towards comforting, edible notes. The introduction of a gourmand scent also underscores the brand’s thesis: that the most fertile ground for olfactory innovation may well lie in exploring the past. The Art and Science of Olfactory Archaeology The philosophy of "olfactory archaeology" is not merely a marketing concept; it is a deeply ingrained methodology that guides Änti Parfum’s creative process. Larsonneur elaborates on this, explaining their rigorous research methodology. "We research the historical emotional, symbolic and material traces a civilization has left behind, with information from botanists, perfume historians and anthropologists. In practice, it means reading, gathering visual references, studying rituals, architecture, trade routes, cosmetics, food, religious practices, even climate." This interdisciplinary approach ensures that each fragrance is grounded in historical accuracy, acknowledging the nuances of ancient terminology and ingredient availability. For instance, what was referred to as "incense" in ancient texts might not always be frankincense, but could encompass myrrh or other aromatic resins. The creative constraints imposed by this methodology are significant. Perfumers are restricted to using ingredients that were demonstrably available in the specific time and place being explored. This commitment to historical authenticity is balanced by a crucial element: the modern interpretation. As Larissa Sugaipova explains, "your perfumers to use one ingredient which is more common today because you can’t wear the exact fragrances from ancient Egypt. It won’t be wearable. We don’t want to just redo the past, we want to bring its essence into today for a contemporary nose." This "modern twist" is a carefully considered element, ensuring that the fragrances are not museum artifacts but wearable expressions of history. Larsonneur provides a concrete example with "Bast." While the fragrance meticulously incorporates ancient Egyptian ingredients like cardamom, saffron, papyrus, myrrh, and incense, the addition of an amber accord, synthesized with vanilla, serves as the modern anchor. Vanilla, introduced to the region centuries after ancient Egypt, provides a warmth and depth that evokes the desert climate, a sensory experience that resonates with contemporary sensibilities. This approach distinguishes Änti Parfum from purely academic recreations, such as those found at institutions like The Osmothèque in France, where historical perfumes are preserved and studied. Änti aims to make history palpable and personal through scent. Navigating Misunderstood Aromas and the Future of Fragrance The brand’s commitment to pushing olfactory boundaries inevitably leads to creations that challenge conventional perceptions. "Nashi Toro," despite being one of their best-selling and most accessible scents, reportedly elicited a peculiar reaction from one investor who perceived it as smelling like "wet socks." This highlights the subjective nature of scent perception and the importance of context. Similarly, "Antinoüs," with its bold use of cumin and animalic notes, is acknowledged as polarizing. Larsonneur notes that the challenging combination of cumin, sage, white pepper, and "sweat-leaning ingredients" can be off-putting to some. However, he emphasizes that when applied to the skin, these challenging notes harmonize to create a surprisingly wearable and intriguing aroma. The brand’s willingness to explore less conventional scent profiles extends to their experimental forays. A planned fragrance inspired by the future was ultimately aborted due to its abstract and unsettling nature. Larsonneur describes it as a "monster" that evoked visceral reactions, ranging from fear to a sense of unease, with one friend likening it to "someone waiting for you behind the door with a knife." This experience underscores Änti’s dedication to not only recreating the past but also to exploring the olfactory possibilities of the future, even if such explorations yield challenging results. Larsonneur’s architectural background significantly informs his approach to building Änti Parfum. His diploma thesis, "The Smells of Structures," championed the integration of olfaction into architectural design. He views fragrance construction through a similar lens, likening it to building a structure: "You have the base notes – the foundations – then you have the heart, which is like the main part of your building. Then you have your top notes that are protecting this structure." This conceptual framework allows for a structured and intentional approach to scent creation, ensuring a cohesive and impactful olfactory experience. A Year of Unprecedented Growth and Future Aspirations In the mere seven months since its inception, Änti Parfum has experienced a meteoric rise. The brand’s first point of sale was none other than Liberty of London, a highly coveted retail destination that had been an aspirational goal from the outset. This rapid success is a testament to the founders’ unique vision and their ability to translate complex historical and conceptual ideas into tangible, desirable products. Larsonneur playfully summarizes their journey: "We start from the bottom and now we here – and then we did the opposite." The brand’s ambition extends beyond the current collection. The success of "Kleopatra" and the planned global launch signify a commitment to expanding their reach and introducing their unique olfactory narratives to a wider audience. As Änti Parfum continues to unearth and reinterpret the scents of history, they are not only creating fragrances but also crafting immersive experiences that connect wearers to the past in a profoundly personal and evocative way. Their innovative "olfactory archaeology" promises to redefine our understanding of perfume, positioning it as a powerful medium for historical exploration and contemporary self-expression. Post navigation Ethel Cain’s Coachella Stage Design (2026)
