The Audacious Reimagining of Swedish Minimalism: LLL Unveils "Speakeasy" Collection Amidst Shifting Political Tides

The morning air crackled with an electric anticipation for Leona Lundback, Leon Lindgren, and Mira Leff, the visionary trio behind the burgeoning fashion label LLL. As they prepared for their second official fashion show, an off-schedule presentation coinciding with Stockholm Fashion Week, the energy was palpable. Lundback, who was also slated to walk the runway, sat with hair rollers in place, a testament to the hands-on approach of the designers. Lindgren and Leff, equally animated, anticipated what they hoped would be "a big crowd" for their sophomore showing, which presented their third collection to date. This moment marked a significant step for a brand that has rapidly carved out a niche by challenging the established norms of Scandinavian design, offering a vibrant counterpoint to the region’s traditionally minimalist aesthetic.

Genesis of a Collective Vision: From Oslo to Stockholm

The creative synergy of Lundback, Lindgren, and Leff was forged during their formative years at Stenebyskola, a state-funded fashion school in Oslo. Their initial foray into the industry was characterized by a DIY ethos, self-styling and orchestrating their own photoshoots. "We started small in Oslo by self-styling and starring in our own shoots," Lundback recalled. "Soon our design pieces were being mistaken for each other’s, and when we moved to Stockholm in 2024, we decided to try out designing together for real." This organic evolution laid the foundation for LLL, a brand that now operates at the vanguard of queer utopian and dystopian expression.

LLL: Crafting Armour for a Generation

LLL’s design philosophy extends beyond mere aesthetics; it is about constructing a protective shell, or "armour," for a generation navigating a complex world. The designers perceive their work as a response to the inherent tension between the prevailing Swedish aesthetic of everyday minimalism and a fervent yearning for self-expression. This duality manifests in their collections through daring design choices such as spliced corsets, bold patterns adorning voluminous pannier skirts, and innovative headwear, like cardboard hats, that ingeniously weave in historical Swedish references. This approach positions LLL as a significant voice in contemporary fashion, offering a potent visual language for identity and resistance.

"Speakeasy": A Testament to Resistance and Decadence

The third collection, aptly titled "Speakeasy," was unveiled within the starkly modern confines of the Färgfabriken art gallery. The collection, comprising 25 distinct runway looks, explored the multifaceted nature of resistance. The initially stark white space was transformed, brought to life by archetypes that evoked a visceral experience: sweat-drenched party-goers, rugged sailors fresh from the docks, and even the seemingly demure, stiff-upper-lip women of the middle class who dared to step into the LLL universe.

The inspiration for "Speakeasy" drew deeply from the decadent allure of Weimar-era cabaret and vaudeville, periods known for their bold social commentary and theatrical extravagance. Further fueling the collection’s narrative was the razor-sharp cynicism found in Bertolt Brecht’s iconic 1928 song "Pirate Jenny" from The Threepenny Opera. This juxtaposition of historical and artistic influences allowed LLL to create a collection that was both a historical commentary and a contemporary declaration of defiance, resonating with themes of subversion and reclamation.

Queer Identity as a Driving Force

As all members of LLL proudly identify as queer, their direct engagement with and representation of the LGBTQ+ community is not merely an artistic choice but a fundamental aspect of their brand identity. Leon articulated the sociopolitical context that informs their work: "We have seen political change happen in Sweden for about a decade now, [towards] a much more conservative ideal. The outside world might not feel like it’s built for you, but LLL is." This statement underscores the brand’s commitment to creating spaces and aesthetics that are inclusive and affirming for marginalized communities.

Subverting History, Forging Survival Narratives

LLL’s engagement with historical motifs serves a powerful purpose: to demonstrate how creativity can manifest as radical and beautiful exaggeration. By intentionally subverting historical narratives and actively resisting conservative pushback, the brand crafts compelling stories of modern survival. Their work can be interpreted as a glamorous declaration that when established systems attempt to stifle expression, the underground simply rises to create something more profound and impactful. This ethos positions LLL not just as fashion designers, but as cultural commentators and provocateurs.

An Interview with the Collective Mind: LLL on Escapism, Rebellion, and the Future

In an exclusive conversation, the trio delved deeper into their creative process, the inspirations behind "Speakeasy," and their vision for the future of LLL.

For individuals encountering LLL for the first time, what kind of universe are you inviting them into?

LLL: For Speakeasy, we are inviting people into a very colorful world of glamour, hidden inside a really grey world. Like a haven, really. It’s a collision of Swedish historical references mixed with pure feminine spectacle and fantasy. When you enter the world of LLL, you always have one foot in fantasy and one foot in reality.

The Tripartite Organism: Collaborative Creation

LLL: It’s an ongoing process, really, since we started last year, but it has fast becoming a method for our artistic expression. LLL is turning into almost one combined person, like three brains inside one organism. You have to fight for what you want, which pushes us to explore our boundaries and be incredibly real with each other. Everyone has to bring something to the table. We all speak very freely, but the magic happens when we edit those thoughts into one and react to each other’s work. If there is a piece in the studio, we all gather around it and react. We are allowed to work individually within our process, but we never do anything alone. We find new silhouettes by combining ideas, and a silhouette we thought of at the beginning might become something entirely new. We all have a finger in every single garment.

This collaborative dynamic is crucial to LLL’s unique output. The concept of "three brains in one organism" highlights a profound level of shared vision and mutual respect, where individual creative impulses are synthesized into a cohesive, powerful whole. This approach not only fosters innovation but also ensures that each garment carries the collective DNA of the brand.

Narrative as the Bedrock of Design

LLL: Absolutely. It’s a core method for us. Once we built that world, we then focus directly on the garments. What world these characters live in, and then building a narrative or a story. From that story, we ask, "Who are these people? What are they wearing? What does their wardrobe look like? How do they style it together?"

The emphasis on narrative underscores LLL’s holistic approach to fashion. They are not simply designing clothes; they are crafting entire personas and universes, allowing the garments to emerge organically from the stories they wish to tell. This deep narrative construction sets them apart in an industry often focused on ephemeral trends.

"Speakeasy": Escapism as a Political Act

LLL: It comes from our current political climate in Sweden. The ruling party is driving a much more conservative agenda, and we are just imagining a future where that trajectory becomes a total dystopia. Instead of just worrying or commenting on what’s happening, we just imagine. It’s actually a little soothing. We are taught to just be “okay,” but we had to ask ourselves, “if everything we fear actually happens in Sweden, what will we do?” LLL is inspired by that dystopia and mystery.

The concept of "Speakeasy" as a space for escapism and freedom is a direct response to the perceived conservative shift in Swedish politics. By creating a fantastical refuge, LLL offers not just an aesthetic escape but a psychological one, empowering their audience to envision alternatives to a potentially restrictive future. This act of imaginative resistance is a powerful commentary on the role of art and fashion in times of political unease.

The Queer Lens on Dystopia and Utopia

LLL: It feels very dystopian, but we see that dystopia as an opportunity to create something entirely new apart from reality.

The brand’s exploration of the space between queer utopia and dystopia allows them to engage with complex societal issues without succumbing to despair. This liminal space becomes a fertile ground for innovation, enabling them to envision futures that transcend current limitations and prejudices. It’s a space where the challenges of the present are transmuted into the possibilities of the future.

Rebellion Against Restraint: A Bold Reimagining of Scandi Style

LLL: We think people are secretly longing for it. Just because it isn’t regular Scandinavian fashion, it’s almost easier for us to bridge out of that. The Speakeasy collection is our fun, loud reaction to that restraint.

LLL’s work stands in direct opposition to the prevailing image of Scandinavian fashion, which is often characterized by its clean lines, subdued palettes, and minimalist sensibilities. While acknowledging the aesthetic appeal of such styles, LLL argues for a broader definition of Scandinavian creativity. Their "loud reaction" to restraint is not a dismissal of minimalism but an expansion of its potential, infusing it with exuberance, color, and unapologetic self-expression. This positions them as pioneers in redefining what Scandinavian fashion can encompass.

Charting an Ambitious Future

LLL: We’re taking over the world! We want to become an international brand and – we hate this word – but redefine what fashion can be. Maybe we want to work with theatre costumes. Maybe we want to design couture, ready-to-wear, or maybe we want to design custom costumes for the National Opera all at the same time. What is exciting is that we are still discovering what LLL can be.

LLL’s ambition is not confined to the realm of fashion design. Their vision extends to theatrical costumes, haute couture, ready-to-wear, and even bespoke pieces for major cultural institutions. This multifaceted approach reflects their belief that creativity knows no bounds and that LLL can evolve into a dynamic force across various artistic disciplines. The continuous discovery of their brand’s potential is a testament to their innovative spirit and their commitment to pushing the boundaries of what fashion can achieve.

Supporting Innovation: LLL’s Inclusion in the Swedish Fashion Council Incubator

LLL’s emergence as a significant new voice in Swedish fashion has been recognized and supported by key industry bodies. The brand’s inclusion in the Swedish Fashion Council’s Incubator program last year, alongside established global brands such as Hodakova and August Barron, signifies its growing influence and potential. This support system is crucial for emerging designers, providing resources, mentorship, and visibility that can accelerate their trajectory. The program’s focus on nurturing talent aligns with the broader industry’s recognition of the need for diverse and innovative perspectives. The success of brands emerging from such programs often signals shifts in market demand and aesthetic preferences, indicating a growing appetite for the kind of bold, narrative-driven design that LLL champions. This backing from the Swedish Fashion Council suggests a positive outlook for the future of experimental and identity-driven fashion within the established Scandinavian fashion landscape.