Courrèges: 7 Sexiest Moments from Nicolas Di Felice

Courrèges has announced the departure of its artistic director, Nicolas Di Felice, marking the end of a transformative five-year tenure. The luxury fashion house confirmed the news in a statement, reflecting on Di Felice’s significant impact on the brand’s resurgence. "Over the course of five years, Nicolas Di Felice infused the brand with a new energy, bringing it back to the forefront of the fashion scene," the statement read. "Under his direction, the house experienced a true renaissance, acclaimed by the critics, and established itself as a distinctive voice in the contemporary fashion landscape."

Di Felice’s leadership at Courrèges has been characterized by a bold, often provocative aesthetic that reinterpreted the brand’s futuristic heritage through a lens of modern sensuality. His collections consistently pushed boundaries, blending sharp tailoring with daring silhouettes and a palpable sense of allure, a direction that has been widely lauded by industry insiders and fashion critics alike. The brand, originally founded by André Courrèges in 1961, became synonymous with the Space Age aesthetic, characterized by clean lines, geometric shapes, and innovative materials. Di Felice successfully tapped into this DNA while injecting a contemporary, club-culture-infused sexiness that resonated with a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.

The house’s statement highlighted the renewed critical acclaim and commercial success achieved under Di Felice’s creative direction. This period saw Courrèges reclaim its position as a relevant and influential player in the global fashion arena. His ability to balance the brand’s iconic legacy with forward-thinking design has been central to this revival. The emphasis on clubwear and skin-tight silhouettes, in particular, became a hallmark of his era, setting a high bar for what many considered "sexy" within the contemporary fashion discourse.

To commemorate Di Felice’s impactful five years and celebrate the distinct brand of sensuality he brought to Courrèges, we look back at seven of the most memorable and provocative moments from his collections. These moments encapsulate the daring spirit and undeniable magnetism that defined his vision for the iconic French house.

Cruising with Courrèges: The SS22 Show in Bois de Vincennes

For his second ready-to-wear collection, Nicolas Di Felice orchestrated a memorable show for Spring/Summer 2022, choosing a location steeped in both natural beauty and unconventional associations: the Bois de Vincennes, Paris’s expansive eastern park. This choice was far from arbitrary; the park, often referred to as the "eastern lung" of the city, holds personal significance for Di Felice, being the place where he shared his first kiss with his boyfriend. Beyond its romantic connotations, the Bois de Vincennes is also known for its discreet sections and, reportedly, as a clandestine cruising spot, adding a layer of provocative subtext to the event.

The setting itself became an integral part of the narrative. Models emerged from the dappled woods, their appearances echoing the spirit of a spontaneous day rave. The collection featured a range of sexy clubwear designed for an uninhibited outdoor celebration. As they completed their laps of the runway, the models would subtly retreat back into the shadows of the trees, a visual metaphor that evoked a sense of clandestine encounters and exhilarating freedom. This presentation was a masterful fusion of environment, personal narrative, and fashion, embodying Di Felice’s penchant for blending the sensual with the subversive. The collection itself showcased the designer’s signature aesthetic: form-fitting garments, playful cut-outs, and an overall vibe that was both glamorous and effortlessly cool, perfectly suited for the unconventional, almost secret, garden party setting. The collection’s emphasis on fluidity and movement mirrored the natural environment, while the daring cuts and sheer fabrics spoke to a bold, uninhibited sensuality.

Bella Hadid Embodies the Aftermath of the Night: SS23 Collection

The Spring/Summer 2023 collection delivered a potent visual statement that captured the zeitgeist of post-party glamour and the alluring dishevelment that often follows a night of revelry. The show’s standout moment featured supermodel Bella Hadid, whose appearance seemed to embody the perfect return from an all-night affair. The narrative presented a cast of characters emerging from an imaginary beach party, their looks suggesting a relaxed yet undeniably sexy aftermath.

The styling was key to this narrative: models were depicted in unbuttoned slips, diaphanous sheer dresses, and denim pieces that appeared slashed open, hinting at spontaneous encounters or the wear and tear of a night well spent. The inclusion of sand on the catwalk further reinforced the beach party theme, grounding the collection in a tangible, albeit stylized, reality. Hadid, in particular, became the poster child for this aesthetic, arriving as if she had just stepped off the dance floor, her hair perhaps slightly tousled, and her attire exuding an effortless, lived-in sexiness. The image of her carrying her heels, a common trope for those who have danced the night away, amplified the relatable yet aspirational fantasy. This collection pushed the boundaries of what constitutes "ready-to-wear" by embracing a more raw and liberated form of sensuality, a testament to Di Felice’s vision of modern seduction. The pieces within the collection, from the barely-there dresses to the deconstructed denim, spoke of a woman who is confident, uninhibited, and comfortable in her own skin, a direct reflection of the designer’s ethos.

The Subtle Allure of Navel Gazing: AW23 Collection

Nicolas Di Felice consistently demonstrated an astute understanding of how to evoke sensuality through suggestion rather than overt display. The Autumn/Winter 2023 collection exemplified this approach with its artful incorporation of navel cut-outs. These strategically placed openings appeared on a variety of garments, from long-sleeved sheer tops to sharp jumpsuits crafted from sophisticated suiting fabrics.

This design element served as a subtle yet powerful statement of erogenous allure. By revealing a sliver of the midriff, the navel cut-outs created a captivating "peek-a-boo" effect, drawing attention to a typically concealed area of the body. This understated approach to sexiness resonated deeply, appealing to a sense of sophisticated provocation. The AW23 collection proved that true allure often lies in what is hinted at, rather than fully revealed, a philosophy that aligns with the enduring appeal of classic Courrèges design, which often played with form and suggestion. The juxtaposition of such daring cut-outs with more structured materials like suiting fabric underscored Di Felice’s ability to create modern, confident silhouettes that were both daring and undeniably chic. This collection reinforced the idea that sensuality can be integrated into everyday wear, elevating the mundane into something alluring and unexpected.

Futuristic Frontiers: The 3D Printed Bras of SS24

The Spring/Summer 2024 collection pushed the boundaries of innovation and daring design, featuring a groundbreaking collaboration with the esteemed jeweler Stephanie D’heygere. D’heygere, who previously held the role of senior jewelry designer at Dior, brought her unique vision to Courrèges, resulting in some of the collection’s most talked-about pieces: 3D printed bras. These avant-garde accessories, rendered in both reflective metallic finishes and transparent perspex, were not merely decorative elements but statement pieces that embodied the futuristic spirit of the brand.

These innovative bras moved beyond traditional lingerie, functioning as architectural marvels that complemented the collection’s array of plunging necklines, daring keyhole cut-outs, and intricately designed leather harnesses. The 3D printed construction offered a glimpse into the future of fashion manufacturing, showcasing how technology can be integrated to create intricate and visually striking designs. The choice of materials—the cool gleam of metal and the sharp clarity of perspex—added a distinctively modern and almost futuristic edge. This collaboration highlighted Di Felice’s commitment to exploring new frontiers in design and his ability to partner with artisans who share his innovative spirit. The SS24 collection was a powerful assertion of Courrèges’s continued relevance in the contemporary fashion landscape, blending artistry, technology, and a bold, unashamed sensuality. The collection’s embrace of innovative techniques and materials underscored Di Felice’s forward-thinking approach, solidifying Courrèges’s reputation as a house that consistently looks to the future.

Provocative Touches: "Hot Pockets" and Heavy Breathing in AW24

The Autumn/Winter 2024 collection opened with an immersive sensory experience, as the sound of slow, heavy breathing filled the venue. This auditory element set a primal and intensely intimate tone, preparing the audience for the collection’s daring sartorial statements. The runway itself seemed to come alive, with a central white membrane rhythmically heaving in time with the cacophonous breaths, creating a palpable sense of organic energy and tension.

Dominating the collection were looks featuring what could only be described as "hot pockets"—jetted openings strategically placed just above the crotch. Models would provocatively slide a single hand into these suggestive slits, creating an undeniable visual charge. This bold design choice was a clear nod to the collection’s theme of heightened sensuality and tactile exploration. The interplay between the breathing soundscape, the animated runway, and these provocative garment details created a show that was both visually stunning and deeply unsettling, in the most compelling way. It was a masterclass in using fashion to evoke strong emotional and physical responses, a hallmark of Di Felice’s daring creative direction at Courrèges. The collection’s bold silhouettes and suggestive detailing underscored a mature and confident approach to sensuality, moving beyond overt displays to explore more nuanced and impactful forms of allure.

Feathered Allure: The Ostrich Feather Tops of AW25

For the Autumn/Winter 2025 season, Nicolas Di Felice embraced a bold new material and aesthetic: the opulent and tactile world of feathers. The collection prominently featured large-scale ostrich feathers, transformed into striking evening tops that exuded a sense of decadent glamour. This ambitious undertaking was realized through a significant collaboration with Maison Fevrier, the preeminent Parisian plumasserie renowned for its exquisite feather craftsmanship.

The resulting tops, presented in sophisticated palettes of black, white, and taupe, were not mere embellishments but the primary structural elements of the garments. Crafted from entire ostrich feathers, they offered a dramatic textural contrast to more minimalist silhouettes. This collection showcased Di Felice’s ability to elevate traditional couture techniques into a contemporary fashion context, creating pieces that were both luxurious and provocatively designed. The feather tops, in particular, embodied a new definition of eveningwear, blending avant-garde design with a bold, almost theatrical sensuality. The collaboration with Maison Fevrier underscored Courrèges’s commitment to artisanal excellence and its willingness to explore unconventional materials to achieve striking aesthetic outcomes. This collection was a testament to Di Felice’s creative range, demonstrating his capacity to reimagine classic materials for a modern audience.

The Art of Illusion: Naked Illusions in AW26

Across his impactful tenure at Courrèges, Nicolas Di Felice frequently played with the perception of reality, masterfully creating illusions that made garments appear more revealing than they actually were. This fascination with the "almost naked" aesthetic reached its zenith in his final Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, which featured models adorned in flesh-toned sheer tops. These garments, meticulously constructed with strategically placed pockets and strips of black fabric, offered a tantalizing glimpse of skin while maintaining an essential modesty.

This technique of "naked illusion" was a recurring motif throughout Di Felice’s collections, demonstrating his sophisticated understanding of how to create allure through suggestion and clever design. The AW26 show, in particular, highlighted this mastery, leaving the audience to question the boundary between what was seen and what was implied. The effect was both disarming and undeniably chic, reinforcing the Courrèges woman as someone who is confident, empowered, and in control of her own sensuality. This final collection served as a powerful culmination of Di Felice’s vision for the house, a testament to his ability to reinterpret the brand’s futuristic legacy with a modern, provocative, and deeply alluring sensibility. The enduring impact of his work at Courrèges lies in his ability to infuse classic design with a contemporary edge, creating pieces that are both timeless and undeniably now.

The departure of Nicolas Di Felice marks a significant moment for Courrèges. Over his five-year tenure, he not only revitalized the brand but also redefined its aesthetic, imbuing it with a potent and contemporary sensuality. His collections consistently pushed boundaries, blending the house’s iconic futuristic heritage with a bold, club-inspired allure. The impact of his work is evident in the renewed critical acclaim, commercial success, and distinct identity that Courrèges has reclaimed on the global fashion stage. As the house prepares for its next chapter, the indelible mark left by Di Felice’s daring vision and his seven sexiest moments will undoubtedly continue to influence the brand’s trajectory for seasons to come. The fashion industry will be keenly watching to see who will succeed him and how they will build upon the foundation of modern sensuality and futuristic innovation that he so skillfully established.